Day Four: We Tackle the Mountain

The stay at the Quinta was what the doctor ordered.  We got up at 5:30 while it was twilight outside, and breakfast was already waiting for us.  Boiled eggs, Serrano ham, cheese, fresh fruit, yogurt.  Why leave?

We got on the road at 6 AM, and the day was different. It was foggy and at times misty. Temperatures were cool, and if we had to traverse the mountains on our longest slog yet, this was the weather we wanted.

Breaking news: I got my first blister.  Not in the usual places, but on the inside of my heal, under my ankle.  It hurts!  Julia had every toe taped up. I can't even imagine how that felt.  I'm writing this at the end of the day, and my little friend has a twin brother on the other foot.  It's just not fair...

We kept up a quick pace through gorgeous countryside, and after two hours, we reached Ponte de Lima, which is probably the prettiest city in Portugal.  Some day, when I have time, we're coming back.

Coffee by the River. Pilgrim's progress

We went to a butcher shop and we bought sausage much like a French saucisson sec and some local cheese.  Then we headed across the river and into the mountains.

Looking at this picture, you can't tell how steep these trails were.  Half way up what seemed to be forever, we entered a little town. The first person we met was an old man walking his cow.

Meet Bessie.

We kept on slogging up the mountain.  We passed people, but nobody we'd met before.  When we got close to the top, we found a cross where pilgrims had left rocks and written prayers. We decided to have our lunch: the sausage, cheese, and a melon we liberated from breakfast.  Two German ladies came by and took our picture.

Even with the cool fog, I was soaked to the skin with sweat. Hiking with a backpack through the mountains is no joke.

For once, our plans worked as intended. We got to Rubiaes a little after one.  We were the first pilgrims at the Albergue.  We took showers and the owner offered to launder our two days worth of filthy clothes for three euros.  Deal!

We walked into town to get refreshments and will return tonight for-get this-a gluten free dinner.

Today was over 30 kilometers.  Tomorrow will be under 20, but we cross the Rio Minho into Spain.  We should meet up with Julia and family in Tui.  Wish us luck!