Day Five: We Reach Spain

The article in SAGE's newsletter MesSAGEs was entitled "No Pain, No Spain". Unfortunately, it's true. I've got symmetrical blisters on each heel and my left knee is getting stiff.  Michelle has one blister, but also has a sore Achilles tendon and a swollen arch.

On the good side, we made it to Spain and have only 119 kilometers to go.

Last night, we had dinner in a very allergy aware restaurant in the tiny town where we were staying. The menu featured-get this-an allergen grid on the last page. There were only two items off limits to us, but that was a huge improvement. Michelle complained that everything was fried--but none of it got us sick.

Michelle with Miniature Gorilla Girl

Our albergue yesterday had two adult cats and three identical tabby kittens.  There was only one other pair of travelers, so we got a room for ourselves.  This time of the year, all the little towns in Portugal and Galicia have Ferias (fairs) where they celebrate by shooting off rockets in the night.

So, last night about two in the morning, I was awakened by this booming-the sound of explosions.  It was accompanied by the sound of mewing--the clamour had terrified the kittens and they came through our open window to safety.  Michelle was freaked out by all these cats in the room and moved into an upper bunk bed.  I woke up with a kitten in my bed.

With no fog, we figured it was going to be a hot day, but it was cool and great walking weather.  Our objective was much shorter than previous days-only 18 kilometers.  That's something more than a four hour walk.

The old man and the Camino

By this point, the Camino had become largely country roads and backwoods trails.  The uneven ground wreaks havoc on your legs.

The coolest thing ever was the realization that we were almost in Spain.  Valença is the Portuguese border city that we walked through.  The Portuguese and Spaniards fought for years, so the Camino wends through the fortifications along the Minho River separating the two countries.

The other side of the river is Spain.

To cross the river, you go over a two lane bridge constructed by Gustave Eiffel.

And once you're over, no passport check or anything, you're in Spain.  Finally, signs I can read and waiters I can understand!

We walked through the city of Tui and got our passports stamped at the Cathedral, which looks like a fortress.  Under the Portuguese guns, it had to be built that way.   At this point, things start to get a little emotional.  This takes a lot of effort.  The significance of each stamp grows.

We found our albergue and went through the usual drill: (1) take a shower (2) do laundry, (3) find lunch. This last part is important.  Food is something that Spain excels at-and since we used to live here,we were jonesing for some real Spanish food.

Pulpo a La Gallega. Why we walk...

Michelle and I had lunch in a touristy restaurant by the Cathedral, filled with American senior citizens.  The worst overheard line of the day: "Do you have a menu in American?" Cringe.  We volunteered helping translate and when they discovered we were pilgrims, we became part of the entertainment.

Tonight, we'll see our friend Sol and will be reunited with Julia, our lost companion.  Tomorrow, we walk over 30 kilometers to Redondela, near the city of Vigo.  There, we'll see my cousin Marilyn.  The more we walk,the closer we get.  I'll let you know how it turns out.