Monday, July 13, 2015

Day Seven: Pontevedra

We got up early and for once didn't worry about waking up any of the other pilgrims.  There were plenty of people getting up--there were 42 bunk beds...

We started out at about 6:30 AM, which was better, in my opinion, because we had twilight to guide us.  The  walk today was a mere 20 kilometers (after yesterday, everything seems a lot shorter).

The Camino now has two distinct sets of travelers.  The real backpackers and the turegrinos that I spoke about in yesterday's update.

When we reached the town of Arcade (pronounced phonetically, not like the English word "arcade"), we had to cross this bridge across the Vigo Ria.


Now, you probably can't see it, but there are three Canadian tourists on that bridge.  They were part of a busload of Canadian turegrinos that started out of Tui.  The bus carries their baggage and they stay in hotels.

Anyway, we catch up to them because we walk stupid-fast, and they ask where we're from.  We answer " Baltimore and Chicago".  They reply "We're from Southern Ontario, right across from Detroit".

I say, " My wife's uncle is a retired priest who lives in Windsor, across from Detroit".

"What's his name?" they ask.

"Mitch Kaminski", I reply.

"He serves mass at the Polish parish in Chatham.  That's the church I go to. I know father Kaminski."

"He's my mother-in-law's brother."

"Small world.". Indeed.

We raced ahead.  As I wrote yesterday, a lot of the Camino is on old Roman roads.  The pavement is huge random shaped granite stones.



In the picture, you can see the wheel ruts from centuries of wagons traveling over the stones.  I thought it was impressive.  Michelle asked if I wanted her foot in the picture.

We got to Pontevedra early and checked into a hotel.  We ran into Bart later, and he'd done the same thing.  We'd all had enough of the turegrinos.  We also wanted some space and clean dry clothes.


The historic center of Pontevedra is beautiful.  The buildings and streets are all granite, just like those Roman roads.  We had lunch in a cafe.  I had Merluza a la Gallega (Hake cooked in the Galician style, with sweet smoked paprika.) It was the best I've ever had.


This is the Iglesia la Perregrina.  It's a block from the hotel.  The floorplan is shaped like a scallop shell, the symbol of Santiago de Compostela.

I've been in this city before, but it's much cooler than I remember.  If you're going to do the Camino, you need to budget time in places like this.

After lunch, I went shopping for provisions:

An adapter to replace one I lost in an albergue.

Chorizo, manchego cheese and fruit for tomorrow's hike.

Iodine for my blisters.

Bottled water.

An ace bandage for Michelle's ankle.

I came back with everything except the ace bandage. These are not stock items in Spanish pharmacies, which are very small, private shops-no CVS or Rite Aids here.

On a personal note, I haven't shaved since I left Washington, DC a week ago.  I was hoping to look like the Old Spice guy.  I fear I look like a cross between Aqualung and Mr. French.  (If you don't understand, ask your parents...)

Tomorrow, we walk to a small town called Calda de Reis which has hot springs where pilgrims soak their feet.  (I hope they have gluten free beer...) Stay tuned.

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